Whirlpool Refrigerator Clicking but Not Cooling: Relay Fix

You open the fridge and the milk is warm. The interior light works, you can hear a fan running, and every few minutes there is a sharp click from the back near the floor, followed by a short hum and then silence. If that sounds familiar, your Whirlpool refrigerator is clicking but not cooling, and the most common cause is a failed compressor start relay and overload.

The good news: on many Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper and Estate refrigerators, the relay is a small plug-on part that you can test and replace in about 20 minutes with basic hand tools. This guide explains what the click means, how to rule out other causes, and how to swap the relay safely.

Why a Whirlpool Refrigerator Clicks but Does Not Cool

The compressor is the pump that moves refrigerant through the system. It needs a little help to get started, and that help comes from the start relay (also called a start device). Mounted next to it is the overload protector, a heat-sensitive switch that cuts power if the compressor draws too much current.

When the relay fails, the compressor tries to start but cannot. It draws heavy current, the overload heats up and trips with a click, cools down for a few minutes, resets, and tries again. That cycle repeats all day: click, hum, click, silence. Meanwhile the evaporator fan keeps running, so the fridge sounds alive while the cabinet slowly warms up.

Other causes that can look similar

• Dirty condenser coils. Heavy dust makes the compressor run hot, which can trip the overload. Clean the coils first; it costs nothing.
• Failed condenser fan (on models with the coil under the cabinet). If the fan near the compressor does not spin when the compressor runs, the system overheats.
• Defrost problem. If the freezer is cold but the fresh food side is warm and you see frost on the back freezer panel, the issue is defrost, not the relay.
• Weak or seized compressor. A new relay will not fix a compressor that is mechanically stuck. If a new relay still clicks off within seconds, call a technician.
• Clicking from the control board. A relay clicking inside the control panel is a different sound and location from the compressor area at the bottom rear.

Safety First

Always unplug the refrigerator before removing the rear access panel. The relay terminals carry line voltage. Do not cut or open any refrigerant lines; that work requires a certified technician. Wear gloves, because the sheet-metal edges are sharp and the compressor shell can be hot right after it runs.

How to Test the Start Relay

1. Find your model number. It is usually on a label inside the fresh food compartment along a side wall or near the top. Write it down; you will use it to confirm the replacement part.
2. Unplug the fridge and pull it out. Protect the floor and leave room to work at the back.
3. Remove the lower rear access panel. It is held by a few 1/4-inch or 5/16-inch hex screws.
4. Locate the relay. It is the plastic block plugged onto the pins on the side of the compressor, usually under a small cover or wire clip.
5. Take a photo of the wiring so you can match it later, then pull the relay straight off the compressor pins. Do not twist or pry against the pins.
6. Do the shake test. Many solid-state relays rattle when they fail because the internal element has cracked. A rattle, burn marks, a melted spot or a burnt smell are all signs the relay is bad.
7. Check with a multimeter. With the relay off the compressor, check for continuity across the relay terminals that plug onto the compressor pins, using the wiring diagram on the back of the refrigerator or inside the access panel as your guide. An open reading where the diagram shows continuity means the relay has failed.

Because the relay and overload work together and are inexpensive, most DIYers replace them as a set when the compressor is short-cycling.

Choosing the Right Replacement Relay

Match by part number, not by appearance. Look for the number printed on your old relay, or search your model number in your owner's manual or parts diagram.

Our 2188830 Relay and Overload is a non-OEM compressor start device used on most Whirlpool, Kenmore, Roper, Estate and Kelvinator refrigerators. The product listing shows it replaces part numbers including 8201786, 2198830, 2188829, 2188832, 2188833, 2188844, 2188845, 2188846, 2188847, 2212193, 2212194, 2216697, 2216722, 2220474 through 2220477, 8201531, 8201532, AP3885081, 1177466 and PS993073. If your old part carries one of those numbers, this is the match.

Own a Maytag or Admiral instead? Those models often use a different start device. The Refrigerator Overload Relay Kit 12555902 lists replacement numbers AP4013414, 8170706, 821744 and PS2007740 and lists a long run of compatible model numbers on its product page, so check your model there before ordering.

How to Replace the Relay and Overload

1. Confirm the fridge is still unplugged.
2. Disconnect the wires from the old relay and overload, following the photo you took. Most use push-on spade connectors.
3. Remove the old overload if it is a separate piece. On many 2188830-style setups the relay and overload come as a pair.
4. Push the new relay and overload firmly onto the compressor pins until fully seated.
5. Reconnect each wire to the same terminal it came from, then reinstall the wire clip or cover.
6. Vacuum the condenser coils while you have the panel off.
7. Reinstall the rear panel, push the refrigerator back, and plug it in.

Listen for the compressor. It should start with a normal hum and keep running instead of clicking off after a few seconds. Give the refrigerator up to 24 hours to return to its set temperature before judging the repair.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should a refrigerator click?

A single click when the compressor cycles on or off is normal. A click every few minutes with a warm cabinet usually means the overload is tripping because the compressor cannot start.

Can a bad start relay damage the compressor?

Repeated failed starts put stress on the compressor windings and the overload. Replacing a failed relay promptly is the best way to protect the compressor.

Is the 2188830 relay the same as 8201786?

The product listing shows the 2188830 relay and overload replaces 8201786, along with many other Whirlpool and Kenmore numbers. Always compare the number on your old part to be sure.

What if the new relay does not fix it?

If the compressor still clicks off within seconds with a new relay and clean coils, the compressor itself or the sealed system may be at fault. That repair needs a licensed refrigeration technician.

Get Your Fridge Cooling Again

A clicking refrigerator that will not cool is often a small, affordable part away from working again. Order the 2188830 Relay and Overload for Whirlpool and Kenmore models or the 12555902 Overload Relay Kit for Maytag and Admiral, and browse more refrigerator parts in our appliance parts store.